Linocut Supplies: Get Started Linoprinting

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If you are looking to get started linoleum block printing, you’re probably looking for linocut supplies, eh? I’ve dabbled in linoprinting over the years, but really never got past the Speedball set (which is every beginner’s favorite!) so I will rely on my artist friends here for linocut supplies to buy if you want to go a step or 2 up from basics.

Linoprinting really isn’t that expensive to get started with. The basic Speedball cutting tool set will set you back just about $12, and is awesome for beginners. Even going up a level as far as linoleum tools go won’t break the bank. So congrats on your art-medium choice, as you could be investing hundreds of dollars in acrylic painting, which is where I like to throw my money.

Linocut Supplies

If you are fresh and new to linoleum printing, you will just need a set of lino carving tools, something to carve, ink, and paper. I’ll give you some examples of beginner linocut supplies as well as better-quality lino printing equipment below.

Lino Cutting Tools

Linocutting blades are made of steel and come in ‘u’ and ‘v’ shapes and different sizes. The ‘v’ shapes are for more precise, thinner lines, while the ‘u’ blades will get in there and remove more of the linoleum. Most sets will also come with a flat blade for straight lines, but many artists tend to prefer a craft or X-acto knife for straight lines.

Most sets provide you with a handle that you can pop whichever blade into that you would like to use. Some people are fine with that, while others like me have zero patience and buy another handle or 2 to keep our most-used blades ready to go at all times.

Speedball Lino Cutters

As I mentioned, Speedball lino cutting tools are usually the set most people start with. They are cheap and good quality. In fact, you may choose to stick with them. You will recognize the Speedball linoleum cutter set from the bright plastic handle. I’ve always loved the fact that you can pop off the end of the handle to store the blades inside.

Speedball cutters have a rounded end, intended to fit nicely in your palm, and they are sort of a cross between other cutters. There are also shorter, very round-handled cutters and more straight-handled cutting tools out there for you to explore.

Flexcut Linoleum Cutters

This is the linoleum carving tools that I would recommend if you think you will be doing more than the very occasional linocutting. As of right now, the set is under $50, and gives you a handle, 4 blades, a cute little roll case to keep them in, a leather strop, and polishing compound.

This is perfect to get you started, and you can add more blades (and handles) as you like. You will notice the difference in cutting between this and Speedball, so definitely make this small investment if you are intending to linoprint often.

Pfiel Lino Cutting Tools

And then we have the Pfiel tools! These are many a linocutting artist’s favorite. They are Swiss made and will last you forever with proper care. If you plan on doing a lot of linoleum printing and want the best, Pfiel cutters are your answer. At over $100 for a set, they may seem pricey, but, dang, this does not feel like a lot of money to invest in an amazing tool set.

Related: Art Supplies Online

Linoleum

As a very beginner in linoprinting, I would definitely opt for trying the original linocutting block: battleship grey linoleum. You can choose to buy it glued to wood blocks, or the thinner sheets of linoleum.

Linoleum can be drawn on with ink or pencil so you know where to carve, and look into pencil transfer if you haven’t done this before. It’s much easier than freehand drawing straight onto the linoleum.

When I first learned to carve linoleum, I kept an iron nearby to warm up the linoleum, making it easier to carve. I think some people still warm up the linoleum, while others prefer to be all cool and carve it at air temperature. You can also place the linoleum on a non-stick nubby drawer-liner type of material, which helps keep it steady as you carve.

You also have the option to use a block made from a weird soft material that feels sort of like rubber meets a mystery plastic. It’s so much easier to carve, but you won’t be able to get the fine detail you can with linoleum.

Brayers

Brayers (rollers) are what you use to evenly spread the ink across your surface and then onto your linoleum. For linocut printing, you will want a rubber brayer.

These are a matter of preference, but I don’t think the hard brayers work as well as the softer ones. Sometimes the harder brayers have trouble with detailed cuts in your block, and you need just the right squishiness in your brayer.

Brayers come in different widths, so you can choose your brayers depending on the size prints you will be making. Logical, huh?

Ideally you’ll want the width of the brayer to be equal to – or wider than – your block, so you don’t get the ink lines made by the edges of the brayer. It’s pretty hard to get rid of those lines, so keep this in mind when choosing your brayer width.

Ink for Linocuts

As far as inks go, you can use water-based or oil-based inks. I love making prints with oil-based inks as a matter of personal preference, but if you area beginner you may want to play around with water-based.

Or throw caution to the wind and use the nummy oil-based inks.

If you do use oil-based ink, cleanup is a little tougher than with water-based inks. To get as much ink as you can off of your linoleum, make a few prints on newsprint, then use a little vegetable oil on a rag to wipe the ink off. Finally, a little dish soap and water will finish your cleaning process.

Alternatively, you can use mineral spirits to remove the remaining ink, but make sure you are in a well-ventilated area.

For water-based inks, I think Speedball makes a good product, and for oil-based I love Gamblin.

Paper

When it comes to art paper, I am obsessed with Legion Stonehenge paper and BFK Rives. I love both of these papers so much for everything from painting to drawing to printmaking. Practice on your newsprint first, and then when you use either of these papers, your prints will shine.

Of course, they are pricier than other papers, but I find that 1. It’s so worth it, and 2. You can cut down larger pieces and the price isn’t really bad.

Richeson printmaking paper is a cheaper price point, but will still give nice results if you are on a printmaking paper budget (or want to just go completely wild experimenting and playing around.)

Glass slab (or freezer paper in a pinch)

This is to roll the ink out on – ink will roll out most evenly on a glass slab or palette, but if you can’t wait to get started and haven’t gotten your glass yet, I have used freezer paper and also aluminum foil to roll out ink.

If you do any acrylic painting, you can also use your glass slab as a palette, or you can paint on it and use it for monoprints. Glass slabs are highly useful art tools!

Wooden Spoon or Baren

Use the back of a wooden spoon if you have one, or you can be all professional and use a baren to smooth the paper onto your linoleum. This lets you press the paper into the block more than if you just use your hand, so you get a more even print.

Newsprint

Newsprint is used to make test prints. As you are happily cutting away your linoleum block, you will want to test it to see if you’ve removed enough of the linoleum.

You can also use it for test prints to get a feel for how much/little ink you want to use, or even to place under your block when you make a print.

Linocut Materials FAQ

Linoleum knife blades can be reused for a while before you need to sharpen them (or replace them). Some sets, like the Pfiel Swiss cutters can last you a lifetime with proper care.

Always cut away from your hands! Always, always, always. Consider me your linocut mom. Or don’t; that’s weird.

The newer soft blocks are easier to cut, but linoleum tends to hold detail better, so there is a tradeoff. I would perhaps start with softer blocks if you are doing this with kids or just making a simple large shape to print, but definitely go linoleum if you are working in detail.

Practice cutting on a scrap piece of linoleum before diving into a big, elaborate linoleum block. Remember to hold the cutting tool at less of an angle so you don’t gouge deep down into the material all at once – more frequent, shallow cuts will lessen the chance of a big mistake!

I like this post for linocut tips if you are just getting started with it.

Linocut Supplies Quick List

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