acrylic paints and paint brushes on canvas

How to Start Acrylic Painting Without Wanting to Snap Your Brushes in Half

This guide is BIG. (It’s meant to be.)

Acrylics are one of the most versatile, forgiving, and joyfully chaotic mediums you can use—perfect for beginners, dabblers, or anyone who’s taken a 3-year detour into hoarding paint supplies without actually making anything. No judgment. Been there. 🥲

Whether you’re just starting or you want to nerd out on acrylic paint with me, this post is a full-spectrum walk-through of everything you actually need to know to get going (without spiraling into overwhelm). Supplies, surfaces, techniques, color mixing, common mistakes—I’m holding your hand through the whole shebang.

Everything here is tested, tweaked, and filtered through the lens of “what actually works and doesn’t make me want to throw a paintbrush across the room.” You’re getting the good stuff: No filler, no pressure.

Let’s go, my little painting besties.

You do not need a full cart of supplies to start painting with acrylics. The internet will try to convince you otherwise, but it’s all LIES. 😆 Here’s what you actually need:

Bare Minimum Supplies

acrylic paint tubes

Acrylic Paint

Start with a primary color set or a warm/cool split. You need red, blue, yellow, white, and optionally black (or better yet, mix your own!).

canvas panels for acrylic painting

Surface to Paint on

Paper, canvas panel, wood panel, or even cardboard. Whatever you have works – each surface will yield a different result.

paintbrushes

Brushes

A couple of decent synthetic brushes in different shapes (flat and round) will take you far. (#6 or #8 size is a good place to start).

jars full of water for paint

Water Container

For rinsing brushes. An old mug works.

acrylic paint palette with paints

Palette

Disposable paper palette, reusable plastic one, or just a plate. I use freezer paper.

blue paint rag

Rag or Paper Towels

For dabbing, blotting, and cleaning up messes.

Done! You can paint now. 🥳

The “Level Up” Add-ons

Once you get rolling, these are the next things that’ll make your life easier or your art more fun:

  • Palette knife – For mixing or painting in texture.
  • Gesso – To prime surfaces like wood or raw canvas.
  • Acrylic medium – For experimenting with texture, flow, and finishes.
  • Spray bottle – Keeps paint wet longer while you work. (Try to find one that is more misty than full-on power washer)
  • Apron or painting shirt – Acrylics dry permanent on clothes, friend. Ask me how I know.

What Surfaces Can You Use for Acrylic Painting?

One of the best things about acrylic paint is that it sticks to almost anything. But if you’re wondering where to begin, I’ve got you.

Easiest Surfaces for Beginners

Let’s keep it simple first.

  • Acrylic or watercolor paper: Super beginner-friendly. Just tape it down to a table or board to keep it from warping, and go. Look for “mixed media” or “acrylic” paper that’s at least 140 lb (300 gsm).
  • Canvas panels: Cheap, easy to find, and pre-primed. Great for practice.
  • Wood panels: Smooth and sturdy. You’ll need to seal and gesso them (don’t worry, I’ll walk you through it in the Acrylic on Wood post).
  • Gessoed cardboard: Yes, really. If you’re just testing techniques, prime a piece of cardboard and go wild. And then hug yourself for re-using your Amazon box.

Surfaces for More Control or More Texture

Once you know how you like to paint, you’ll find your ride-or-die surfaces.

  • Cradled wood panels – No flex, no bounce. Great if you like to layer, scrape, or collage.
  • Stretched canvas – Has texture and bounce. A classic choice. Pre-primed canvas is ready to go out of the wrapper.
  • Acrylic paper pads D1C357– Smooth, absorbent, and made for acrylics. Feels less “precious” than canvas.
  • Found materials – Cardboard, old books, MDF boards, thrifted wooden plaques… If it’s sturdy and flat-ish, it’s fair game. Story time: When I was fresh out of art school I would nab old windows from the curbs outside of buildings in Chicago that were getting renovated. I then gessoed the glass and painted on the panels. Very daring. End of story.

Quick Tips for Any Surface

Let’s keep it simple first.

  • Seal porous surfaces like wood or cardboard before you paint to prevent discoloration or peeling.
  • Gesso raw surfaces (like plain wood or unprimed canvas) so your paint doesn’t soak in like a stupid sponge. (or go all Helen Frankenthaler and use your watery acrylic paint to stain the raw canvas.)
  • Test before you go all-in. Let yourself experiment.

So… What Is Acrylic Paint, Anyway?

Acrylic paint is water-based, quick-drying, and wildly versatile. It’s made from pigment (color) suspended in an acrylic polymer binder—that’s the magic goo that helps it stick to just about any surface: canvas, wood, paper, you name it.

It dries fast (sometimes too fast), layers well, and can go from watercolor-sheer to thick and textured depending on how you use it. Add water to thin it, mediums to tweak it, or just dive in straight from the tube.

It’s beginner-friendly, doesn’t need solvents, and plays well with almost every other material in your art stash. Boom.

Basic Acrylic Painting Techniques (Do these right now. Don’t think; just do 🤖)

You don’t need to master all of these—but try a few, and watch your confidence pop off.

acrylic painting marks in different colors and styles on paper
01

Flat Color

Just what it sounds like. Use a smooth brushstroke to lay down a single color in a clean, even layer. Super useful for backgrounds or blocking in shapes.

Try it: Mix your color, grab a soft brush, and see if you can cover an area without streaks.

acrylic paint on paper showing the dry brush technique
02

Dry Brush

A favorite for texture lovers. Use a brush with very little paint and skip the water. It creates a scratchy, expressive mark—great for adding grit or distress.

Try it: Dip just the tip of your brush into paint, then lightly drag it across your surface.

glazing technique in acrylic painting
03

Glazing

Thin layers of translucent paint stacked on top of each other = juicy color depth. You can use water or acrylic mediums for this.

Try it: Mix paint with glazing medium and brush it over a dry layer. Let each layer dry before adding the next.

acrylic paints layered in blues and greens
04

Layering

Acrylics dry fast, which makes them killer for stacking layers. Paint something. Let it dry. Paint on top. Repeat.

Try it: Create a simple design with three layers. Watch how they interact.

acrylic paint on paper in green, blue, yellow showing the scraping technique
05

Scraping

Palette knives, old gift cards, plastic spoons—whatever. Scraping paint adds energy and texture and feels fun AF.

Try it: Drop a blob of paint, then scrape it across the surface with a tool.

acrylic paint showing the sgraffito technique
06

Sgraffito

Fancy word for scratching into wet paint to reveal what’s underneath. Use the end of a brush, a stick, a toothpick. It’s very satisfying.

Try it: Paint a layer, let it dry, add a second color, and scratch a design through it while still wet. 

acrylic paint splattered on surface
07

Splatter

Messy on purpose. Flicking watered-down paint onto your surface adds movement and spontaneity. Just cover anything nearby first unless you like permanently speckled walls.

Try it: Load a toothbrush or stiff brush with watery paint and flick it with your finger.

Beginner Practice Prompt: The “Technique Sampler”

Before you dive into your next real painting, take 20–30 minutes to make a sampler page using the techniques above. It’s like a warm-up sketch for your paint muscles.

Here’s what to do:

  1. Grab a sheet of watercolor paper, a wood panel, or whatever surface you’ve got prepped.
  2. Pick 3–5 of the techniques from the list.
  3. Use a limited color palette (2–3 colors + white) to keep it simple.
  4. Make little swatches or marks of each technique on the page—don’t worry about it looking good.

Why this helps:

You’ll loosen up, get familiar with your tools, and build a kind of visual vocabulary you can pull from later. Plus, it feels low-pressure—like doodling with paint.

acrylic paint tubes

Acrylic Color Mixing Basics: How Not to End Up with Mud

You don’t need a degree in color theory to mix colors well—but a few smart habits can save you a lot of frustration (and brown sludge).

1. Start with a limited palette

Fewer colors = fewer chances to make a color that is not of this world. You’d be amazed what you can mix from:

  • Primary red (e.g. pyrrole red or cadmium red medium)
  • Primary yellow (e.g. hansa yellow medium)
  • Primary blue (e.g. ultramarine or phthalo blue)
  • White (for tints)
  • Burnt sienna or raw umber (optional for neutrals)

Play with what just those few can do. You’ll get to know your colors like old friends.

2. Clean your brush more often than you think you need to

Even a tiny bit of the wrong color on your brush can throw off a mix. If your greens keep turning to swamp, your brush is probably to blame.

3. Understand warm vs cool versions of each primary

This is where color mixing gets tricky, especially for beginners. The same “red” can lean more yellow (warm) or more blue (cool), and that subtle shift totally changes what happens when you mix it.

Here’s the most important rule to avoid mud:

To mix clean secondaries (like green, orange, purple), choose primary colors that don’t contain the third primary.

Wait—what?

Let’s break it down:

  • To mix a clean purple, use a red and a blue that don’t have yellow in them (e.g. quinacridone magenta + ultramarine blue).
  • To mix a clean green, use a yellow and a blue that don’t have red in them (e.g. hansa yellow + phthalo blue).
  • To mix a clean orange, use a red and a yellow that don’t have blue in them (e.g. cadmium red light + cadmium yellow light).
Here’s what to do:
  1. Grab a sheet of watercolor paper, a wood panel, or whatever surface you’ve got prepped.
  2. Pick 3–5 of the techniques from the list.
  3. Use a limited color palette (2–3 colors + white) to keep it simple.
  4. Make little swatches or marks of each technique on the page—don’t worry about it looking good.

If your red is actually kind of orangey (has yellow in it), and your blue is greenish (has yellow too), you just invited yellow to the purple party—and yellow + purple = brown. Womp womp.

So:

  • Warm + cool can actually be better than warm + warm in some cases.
  • What matters most is the pigment’s bias—not just how it looks.

4. Use a palette knife to mix

It keeps your colors cleaner, and you’ll have more control over small adjustments.

5. Keep scrap paper nearby

Test your mixes before committing to the canvas. Colors look different once they’re dry—and on different surfaces.

Tip: Don’t just mix with white to lighten a color. Try yellow for a warmer shift, or use glazing medium to keep the saturation while lightening the value.

Bonus Color-Mixing Sheet

Still with me? Good. Let’s go just a little deeper into the magic (and the mistakes) of mixing colors. This cheat sheet covers the most common ways people end up with mud—and how to fix it.

How Not to Make Mud (Unless You Want To)

1. Warm vs Cool Primaries = THE KEY
This is where 99% of beginner mixing goes sideways. Every primary color (red, blue, yellow) comes in warm and cool versions. If you mix two warms, you’re bringing extra yellow into the mix—and yellow neutralizes purple. The result? Sad brown slop.

Here’s the cheat:

Mix TypeExample ColorsResult
Warm + WarmCadmium Red + Ultramarine BlueMuddy neutral (brown)
Cool + CoolAlizarin Crimson + Phthalo BlueClean, rich purple
Warm + CoolCadmium Yellow + Phthalo BlueGreen, often weird (but interesting)

2. Know Your Bias
Every pigment leans a certain way—even if it’s labeled “red.” Here’s a quick starter map:

ColorWarm VersionCool Version
RedCadmium RedAlizarin Crimson
YellowCadmium Yellow DeepLemon Yellow / Hansa YL
BlueUltramarine BluePhthalo Blue / Cerulean

3. The Dirty Little Secret of White Paint
Titanium white can dull or “chalk out” your mixes—great for pastel tones, but if your colors feel lifeless, it might be too much white.

Try Zinc White or Mixing White if you want a gentler lift.

4. A.B.T. (Always Be Testing) (Yes, I am a nerd) (Y.I.A.A.N.)
Paint swatches! Label them! Try mixing two colors in three different ratios and see what happens. You’ll build a muscle for color that theory alone can’t give you.

Here, have a printable!

Want to keep track of your favorite color combos? Print this page and swatch your mixes on the left—then use the boxes on the right to jot down the paints you used, ratios, weird surprises, or “never again” warnings. P.S. I print on card stock, but some printers will print on watercolor paper.

Wrapping It Up: You’re Officially an Acrylic Paint Nerd Now

You’ve got enough here to paint for years. For reals. You don’t need to master everything—just pick a place to start.

Whether you’re standing in the art aisle groping all of the paint brushes, or you’re five paintings deep and ready to try gel mediums or wild mixed-media experiments, this post is your home base.

I’ll be adding more in-depth guides soon on:

  • Acrylic mediums (and which ones are actually worth the money)
  • Using acrylics in collage and mixed media
  • Color mixing!!! (This will be juicy.)

If you want those posts (plus occasional printables and early access to new tutorials), hop on the email list.

And finally: Don’t overthink it! Pick up a brush and start. The fastest way to get good is to make a mess and see what happens.

Now go paint something weird.

Thanks for sharing! 😍

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